The Importance of Assisting and Testing

Anyone who knows me knows that's I'm a huge advocate for assisting and continuously building your portfolio.  I've blogged about it many times.  How to approach an artist about assisting and what to do when you get there.  But I've never really mentioned why it's so important.


Assisting
While I've met some artists who never really assisted I firmly believe that it's a crucial part to learning the craft correctly.  And not just about how to apply makeup but about how to properly behave on set.  To actually see how a real set with real working people who actually do this for a living, works.

You will experience and learn different things depending on who you assist.  But one thing is certain. 9 times out of 10 you will not, I repeat, will not be getting paid.  But why, do you ask?  Because getting chosen to assist is a privilege.  Sure you can go to a school and learn makeup till the cows come home but a school wont really teach you how it is in a real working environment.

In the beginning of your assisting "career" you will get coffee, you will wash brushes, you will do pretty much anything that the key artist needs you to do. It's called paying your dues.  Think of it as the "wax on, wax off" of the makeup industry.  Everyone who is in the business and is successful has, at one point, paid their dues.

I'm not saying that you won't get paid ever but don't expect it to be much if you do.  Especially when you're starting out.  Maybe $50.  Maybe $100.  But don't ever expect money.

Testing
Test, test, tesssssstttttttt till your arm falls off.  I always say, if you're home sitting on your couch munching on Cheetos, then you don't want this bad enough.  You should be testing!  You should be doing productive things that pertain to getting your makeup career started.  Make your business cards, set up a Facebook page, set up your website.  DO SOMETHING!  Sitting there watching re-runs of ::insert fav show here:: will get you nowhere fast.

Testing is another thing that will not pay.  The point of testing is to build your portfolio.  Gather a team that is also in need of portfolio building and build your books together.  If you don't have work to show, no one will hire you.  Whether it's a bride or a commercial client, people want to know what they're buying.

Testing is also necessary to build your skill. Work on different skin colors, skin textures, bone and muscle structure (that's right people, learn that too cause it's not just about slapping makeup on someone face).  Perfecting your craft no matter how little the detail is key.  Maybe you have trouble applying lashes.  Maybe you can't get eye liner on straight.  Test so that you can work on it.  

Everyone who is testing with you is there to perfect something.  The photographer may be trying out new lights.  The hairstylist may be trying out new products.  Maybe the pictures aren't going to be as good in the beginning.  But one thing is for sure.  You walked out of there and learned something new.


Being a makeup artist is so much more than just applying makeup.  It's learning lighting, bone structure, skin types etc.  Ask questions.  Yes, that's right, ask the photographer why that light, why that position, why that lens.  There are so many aspiring artists out there that would do anything for a chance to assist and learn.  They are eager to soak up this knowledge.  So, when you get there, don't screw it up!  Below are some links to past posts that I've written about the industry.  I hope you find them useful.

And please, any questions at all (there are no stupid questions) please feel free to ask me.  My email is always open and I always respond. 

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In MY Kit - Updated

Last time I blogged about my kit was quite a while ago.  Much has changed and many have asked for an update.  This is currently how my kit looks and has looked for about 6 months now.  At this point I don't think it will change much and if it does, I'll just update this particular blog post.  Enjoy the makeup porn.  Lots of pictures ahead.

The only thing that I didn't take pics of were my disposable cause I'm pretty sure you guys know what cotton balls and qtips look like and my Skin Care.  I'm not one of those to carry a lot of skin care items.  I'm a makeup artist, not a dermatologist and don't have any specialty items in my kit.  If my client has a certain skin problem then they usually are already taking care of it and I use their stuff.  I just don't have the space in my kit to carry skin care for every single person in this planet.  My skin care consists of:

Embryolisse 24 Hr Miracle Cream Moisturizer
Kiehl's Ultra Facial Toner
Skyn Iceland Hydro Cool Firming Eye Gels (for Brides ONLY)
Olay Facial Wipes
Elizabeth Arden 8 Hr Cream

As usual, any questions or comments, please feel free to leave them in the comment section OR you're more than welcome to email me at contact[at]yisellsantos[dot]com.

This here is my main eyeshadow palette.  It's what I use for everything from Catalog to Bridal.  Can you tell that I love FACE atelier?

Every makeup artist needs to have a playful palette and this is mine.  Though not used much I always carry it with me.  You just never know when a client is going to ask for random orange eyeshadow.

My Blush Palette.  The top row consists of a palette I got some time ago by Powder Puff Squad.  The company has since sadly disappeared.  A real bummer too cause these blushes are quite amazing.  Tho, Peach Glaze is what get's the most use here.  Don't let the fact that it looks new fool you.  I've renewed this one twice already (this is my 3rd).

I purchased this when it was first introduced and never really used it much.  It's only been lately since I've been doing more bridal that this started seeing more use.  I love it for Bridal (and so do the Brides).

A Hautelook compulsive buy turned awesome.  It was meant to be in my personal kit but I loved it so much that after using it once I stuck it in my kit, once again leaving me with nothing good in my personal bag.  Oh the life of a makeup artist haha!  I find myself using it a lot when I do makeup for Military Balls (for those that aren't aware, I'm an Army Wife and live near a Military Installation).

After trying to find a palette that had a little bit of everything and failing, I just created my own.  This is my main lip palette and use it for pretty much everything.

I recently purchased this and la la love it for Bridal.

Yet another Hautelook compulsive buy but who could blame me?  They were $6 a pop!  Yes please.  Quicky is my fav for catalog.  Plus they go on so gorgeous.

My Bronze Palette.  Though the Yaby powders are supposed to be "Powder Foundations" I never use it as such.  I love to use them to bronze my darker skinned gals.  FA Mocha I use both as bronzer and blush and the MAC I use mostly on men.

My Highlighters and 2 more Bronzers.  I couldn't bring myself to depot the Laguna, I really love that packaging.  The Uplight I use mostly for photoshoots, the Watt's Up (which replaced the NARS Copacabana Multiple) I use for both personal clients and photoshoots and the KA Candlelight powder I use mostly for Bridal (skin dependent).

No you're not seeing double, yes I have two Sparkling glosses.  I use that one the most from this set.  It just looks absolutely beautiful on everyone.

FACE atelier...That is all!

Great when I have that adventurous Bride or doing a flashy bright lip beauty story.  Scandal is the popular color.

Some other various glosses.  The FA's are both lip and cheek tints.  Arabesque is my fav and used the most.  I realize that I carry a lot of glosses.  Many artist carry one (clear).  I love lipgloss (srsly you should see my personal stash) and I love it even more on top of lipsticks.  It just...gives it something.

Lip Pencil booklet.  NARS Sex Machine gets all the use here.  The rest are mostly depending on mood.  But I don't use them as actual lip liners.  I use them as lipstick.  That's right, I fill the whole lip in with them.  I don't like the use of lip liners as...well...liners.

My fav and most used things here are my brow pencils and the Laura Mercier Caviar Stick.  That stuff stays on like a champ!

My main one, only love and obsession in foundation.  FACE atelier!  I could go on and on about this foundation so I won't.  If you use it, you know exactly what I'm talking about.  If you don't use it, I highly urge you to.

Yaby Foundations.  A little more lighweight so I tend to use them more on someone who already has amazing skin such as very young models or prom girls.

My main for TV/Film.  Not that I don't use these for anything else.  I've used these for catalog and bridal as well depending on the skin and look I'm going for but for TV these are key in my kit.

 My go to for my darker gals.  I don't get many darker skinned girls often but when I do I absolutely love this palette.  I mix as needed to get the color I need.  

MUFE Camo Concealer palette #1 & #4 depotted into the Yaby Stackable palette.  I've been using these for years.

Temptu S/B Foundations.  I love the finish and coverage of these.  I've even used them without the airbrush machine.  Fantastic for brides!

My Powders.  I carry all three depending on the look and occasion I'd need them for.

And last but not least, my UD Setting Spray, FA Transforming Gel and Fortunate Face Minerals IntensifEYE Primer.  Cannot live without these in my kit.

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Bridal Must-Haves

And the question arises again...and again lol.  What are your bridal must haves?  Finally after answering the same questions various times, I decided that its time to make a blog about it.  So here are my favorite bridal must haves that I are in my kit.  Again, I like to remind you that this is MY personal opinion.  Everyone's kit is different and what works for one artist, might not work for another.  But I do always encourage everyone to try it out first.  Go and play!  That's the best part of our job.  We get to PLAY!!

Skyn Iceland Hydro Cool Firming Eye Gels

These babies are amazing!  I love to keep these in my kit for the bride.  Keep in mind that she's been planning this day since she was a little girl.  Not when she got engaged, not when she knew that boy was the one...since she was a little girl!  Now if you ask me, that's a long time!  Why not help them relax with these eye gels?  They somehow magically remain cool even in room temperature and help relax the skin around the eyes which is the most thinnest and sensitive skin in our whole entire body.  Even if she doesn't have puffiness I still apply them.  Why?  Because it makes her feel special and pampered.  She is the bride after all.  She should feel special.





FACEatelier Lip Putty

Where would I be without my lip putty?  FACEatelier's lip putty is by far the best lip smoother I've ever encountered that does more than one job.  Not only does it smooth lips, but it hydrates, fills in lines and prevents bleeding. If you're the type of artist that loves to use lip tars for bridal, this is for you.  Honestly, I use it under everything from lipsticks to lip tars to lip liners!









Laura Mercier Foundation Primer - Oil Free

When it comes to foundation primers, this is my favorite.  I've been using it since like, forever!  This tube of awesome primes without leaving the skin looking and feeling too matte, so you still get a nice dewy effect (if that's what you and/or the bride are going for) without looking oily or greasy.  Most brides get married during the summer meaning sweating will happen.  Even if the bride doesn't have oily skin, the weather can hinder the staying power of the makeup and the last thing we want is a melting bride.  And no one wants to see that!  Tip: If I know it's going to be a really hot wedding day, the day before I put it into the refrigerator.  By the time I arrive on location, it's nice and cool and it helps with calming the skin.


Fortunate Face Minerals IntesifEYE

I've spent years trying various eye primers and all have disappointed.  Some didn't hold up, some I just disliked the texture.  I had actually given up on eye primers and just took extra steps to make sure eyeshadows wouldn't crease or fade.  But then I was sent a sample of IntesifEYE and I fell in love!  This stuff is legit.  A tiny, tiny bit goes a long way.  I mean half of half of a pea size is all you need and I love that because I'll have it forever.  If you don't want eyeshadow crease or fade, you need this.  If you want eyeshadow to pop...you need this!  This will forever be a staple in my kit.





Urban Decay All Nighter

And the finisher!  The lovely All Nighter setting spray.  I cannot live without this in my kit.  In fact, I could never send a bride down the isle without misting this on.  Even if you've taken all measures to make sure that her makeup wont melt, I use this as a reassurance that the makeup will absolutely not budge.  After the "I Do's" what do brides do?  That's right!  They party!  Meaning they will dance.  Dancing means sweating.  Sweating means melting...and we sure can't have that!  Sure nothing lasts forever and nothing is ever really "waterproof" but I sure can delay the process.

Note: Sweat and tears are not only made up of water.  They are made up of salt, mucous, water and various oils.  So next time your "waterproof" eye liner runs, don't blame the product, it's not it's fault.

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Sonia Kashuk vs. NARS

Sonia Kashuk "Velvety Matte Lip Crayon" (Top)
NARS "Matte Velvet Lip Pencil" (Bottom)
When I stumbled upon the Sonia Kashuk "Velvety Matte Lip Crayon" while browsing the makeup isle of Target, I couldn't help but buy one because surprisingly it looks almost exactly like...that's right...the NARS "Velvet Matte Lip Pencil."  But how does the SK perform? What's the texture like? How's the color payoff?

I gotta say, they're damn good and absolutely kit worthy.  The color pigmentation is pretty much the same as well as the texture.  I do find that the NARS lasts and stays put longer than the SK one's but that's nothing that can't be altered with a little makeup artist magic.  A good lip base that moisturizes and hydrates will hold it longer.  It's also what I use when applying Lip Tars to avoid bleeding. I like the FACEatelier Lip Putty.

Obviously the NARS has more of a color selection that the SK.  The SK seems to have more of every day natural colors, where as the NARS has quite the color range from Brights to Darks and everything in between.  If SK were to release more of a color range, it would be quite the competition especially in price (SK $7.59 / NARS $25.00).

I'm definitely already loving this for bridal.  Because of the pricing, I would totally put this in their touch up bag.  I would still use my NARS pencils on them (most popular color used in my kit is "Sex Machine") and then give them an SK one.  Though nothing will ever compare to "Sex Machine" (let's face it, that color is gorgeous - and if you don't own it, you totally should!), the closest color I found that kind of matches is "Pinky Nude".

All in all the SK is a really good buy and really nice for bridal, commercial, catalog etc. work.

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Professional E-mails & Websites

When I made a blog post about business cards, I briefly touched on having things simple and having your name on your email and websites.  Perhaps I was a bit too vague because I'm still running into emails and websites with "foo foo".

Your email should always be your name.  I cannot express enough how important this is.  If you're starting out and can't get or afford a domain name that will let you have your name as a dot com you're allowed to temporarily have a gmail or yahoo or whatever makes you happy.

Acceptable:
janesmith@gmail
jsmith@gmail
janes@gmail
janesmithbeauty@gmail
janesmithmakeup@gmail
And so on...

UNacceptable:
sparklesofglitter@gmail
ghettoliciousmakeup@yahoo
Anything that isn't your name is absolutely just a NO!

Your name is not sparklesofglitter.  If it's not on your birth certificate, it should not be used in your email or website.

Some may have free websites where you can't help but have that particular websites name all over it.  I personally have a bridal site through wix.com but guess what's in between all that?  My name! (It's http://yisellsmakeup.wix.com/yisellsmakeup).  I can't help that "wix" is in there but I made it a point to implement my name in there so clients can remember.

If you already have a domain name that allows you to have your name as a dot com, then that's fantastic!  You're on the right track.  My pro site is www[dot]yisellsantos[dot]com along with my pro email which is contact[at]yisellsantos[dot]com.

Acceptable:
info@yourname.com
contact@yourname.com
yourname@yourname.com

The point is, your name is on it!

Please always keep in mind that this is how your client will always remember you.  Don't think that just because you're starting out that this is ok.  That you can probably just change it later.  2 things can happen, you either don't ever change it because now all your clients have this particular email and to change it now will be a pain in the behind OR you do change it and have to email every single client that you've changed your email and we all know that sometimes that doesn't work.  You'll have no choice but to keep the old email just in case someone emails you there.  If you disable it, you could possibly lose jobs and/or clients and no one wants that.  So now...you're managing two emails.  If you ask me, that's just way too much work and your client will forever know and remember you as ghettoliciousmakeup.  This is not professional in any way, shape or form.

If you want to be treated and paid like a professional, you need to conduct and handle your business like a professional.  I find it difficult to take anyone seriously who doesn't have a professional email or site.

Moral of this story:
Act as a pro
Be a pro
Conduct business as a pro
And please, I beg you, stop with the ridiculous email and site names.

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Clean: Brush Shampoo

For years I've been using Dial Soap to clean and disinfect my brushes.  Sometimes I'd even use dish washing soap for my lip brushes because it's the only thing that cuts the sticky/greasy gunk that remains after you've applied lipstick/lipgloss.

I've tried different kinds of brush soaps out there within my years of doing makeup and none of them have really met my expectations.  They were too scented, not scented enough, the scent was bad, left a residue, made my brushes not pick up pigment, had to wash more than once to get them really clean...I can go on and on.  I eventually gave up and just stuck with Dial Soap.  And I love it, I do.  It works and cleans my brushes nicely but its not a brush soap.  It's a hand soap.

Yesterday I received a package from Clean: Brush Shampoo to try out their product.  Now, I have to be honest, I was already skeptical because I've been down this road before.  I knew this package was on its way so I let my personal brushes sit unwashed for two weeks (I clean them every week).  After 2 weeks of using them daily and letting the makeup accumulate, I went ahead and washed them with Clean.

I got both types - Olive Oil & Goats Milk

All I have to say is...Oh my...!!  I was so impressed!  Finally an actual brush shampoo that does the job and leaves my brushes feeling soft.  There are two types of shampoo, one with the main ingredient being Olive Oil and one with Goats Milk.  Now, personally I couldn't really tell the difference between the two.  Then again, what matters to me is that my brushes are clean, that a film or residue isn't left behind, picks up pigment the way it's supposed to and it smells nice.  The samples I received were Unscented which is nice for those with a sensitive nose but not to worry, there's Lemon & Lavender scented shampoo as well.  Another thing that I love is that it's Organic!  That's right, no extra fluff and gross chemicals.  Even the scents are organic oils.  Check out the ingredients:

Olive Oil:
Olive Oil, Glycerin, Palm Oil, Tea Tree Oil, Coconut Oil, Safflower oil

Goats Milk:
Glycerin, Palm Oil, Coconut Oil, Goat’s Milk Powder, Titanium Dioxide, Tea Tree Oil

Where can I buy this awesomeness you ask?  Clean: Brush Shampoo officially opens its online store on Monday, May 13, 2013.  Shop here and get your Brush Shampoo.  I promise, you won't be disappointed.

You can also visit them on:
Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/cleanbrush
Instagram: @cleanbrush

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Is That a Soccer Ball Under Your Shirt?

I never post personal things in my blog.  I'm a very private person and really only share with those very close to me.  Though, once we're close and you really get to know me, I'm quite the foul mouthed, no holds barred kinda girl ha!  I'm from NYC, whatevah!

Many people who follow me of Facebook , Twitter and Instagram (@yisellsmakeup) know that I'm...wait for it...PREGNANT!  Yes!  I've created life and am now carrying a human in me!  WOO HOO!  I've kind of sneaked in some hints and even posted pictures here and there.  Some noticed my growing belly, some didn't.  I didn't exactly publicly announce it (again private person), but I've decided that since the time is soon approaching for me to take a break from work, I'd go ahead and make it really public.

Mid to ending May marks the beginning of my 8th month (I'm 32 weeks now and due June 30th / July 1st) and man I gotta tell ya, I'm starting to feel it.  I was doing just great - taking jobs, getting up early to answer emails, help other artists with their sites etc.  But lately, my poor little legs and ankles are starting to yell at me if I stand for too long.  Tho, this doesn't impair my work in any way.  I just go home and complain to my husband, he tells me to relax and stop working so much but of course I don't listen and he ends up rubbing my footies for hours. WIN!

My little guy at 27 weeks sucking his thumb
Thankfully as a freelance artist I can pick and choose the jobs I know I can handle and make my own schedule but I've promised myself that after June 2nd (the 1st I have a bride lol) that I will take it easy and put myself on Maternity Leave until I know and feel ready to go back to work.  I'll take that last month to slug around, catch up on TV shows and do last minute adjustments to baby's room.

I love my job and can't ever quit completely. I know the work flow won't be the same again (for a long while) and I'm ok with that.  Traveling for now is out of the question.  I was raised to love being with family and that's what I'm going to do.  After almost 10 years in this business, now it's mommy time.  I started out doing weddings, worked damn hard to get where I am, moved up and did lots of print work and even some TV/Film work.  I've been very fortunate and so grateful to the people I've met along the way.  I've had one hell of a good run.  All I wanna do is make people pretty and be with my family.  And that's exactly what I'm gonna do!  I'm back to concentrating only on bridal (for now) which would only really take up a couple hours of my weekends and the rest of the time I'll spend with the hubby and cuddling with my son.

Now this doesn't mean that I won't post here anymore, share my beauty finds, update on the social networks or give anymore advice.  It just means that I might not be able to respond to your lovely comments and questions as fast as usual.  Please, please do keep commenting and emailing me.  I love to hear from you guys and I love with all my heart to help you and give any advice I can.  You guys are a big part of why I love to do what I do.  Without you, a piece of me would be lost.

And now I leave you with some pics of my belly lol!

Me & BFF of 20+ yrs                     College BFF giving the belly some love                       Me and the Hubby

I love you all, seriously!

Biggest hugs and kisses to all. XO!

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Urban Decay vs. Hard Candy

As I was trolling the makeup isle at Walmart I stumbled upon one of those drugstore gems.  Anytime I run into any of those I feel it's my duty to let everyone know because we all know those gems are very rare.

Hard Candy Naturally Gorgeous Palette

The Swatches

I couldn't help but notice that this palette was very similar to the Urban Decay Naked Palette.  But how does it compare to it?  Well, first off, it's $6!  While the color pay off may not be exactly as the UD Palette, for $6 it's not bad at all!  I honestly was expecting them to be either a super glitter bomb or super chalky.  It was neither.  While you do have to work your brush a little more to get some pigment on there, it's still worth picking up.  The wearablity isn't so bad either.  I tested them last night on my arm and went to bed (what I do for the sake of makeup ha!).  While most of the lighter colors faded, the darker colors lasted throughout the night.  But since I'm going to assume that no one goes to sleep with their makeup on (you better not - you guys know better), I'd say the wearability is pretty stable.  The only downside to this palette is that there are absolutely NO mattes at all.

That's where I'd say the UD Naked takes the cake because you get a little bit of everything - shimmers, glitters and mattes. The color pay off is better, you don't have to work as hard to get pigment on the brush and a little goes a long way.  But remember, the UD is also way more expensive at $50 a pop!  Still worth it if you ask me and a definite staple in my kit.

If your just starting out in the makeup industry and don't have much money to start your kit, the Hard Candy Palette is a good starter.  Key word: Starter.  As you get more jobs and clients, your kit should only get better.  You can always get a separate palette of mattes or get them in singles.  Yaby, Face Atelier, Lorac and Urban Decay make really beautiful mattes that aren't chalky.  Though, for me, the best matte neutral palette EVER is the Viseart.  Just hands down amazing!  Every pro I know has one in their kit.  The price isn't pocket friendly but it's worth every single penny.  And if you see it available, buy it!  The availablity doesn't last long and sells out very quickly.

So, in the end, is the Hard Candy Palette a dupe or replacement? No!  If you have the cash, go with the Urban Decay palette.  Would I put the Hard Candy Palette in my pro kit? Yes!  Though I find that this palette is better for consumers, if in a pinch, I would totally use this for Bridal, Catalog, Corporate and Clean Beauty.  Plus, um, hellooooo? $6!  Really can't beat that.

Note: This palette is only available at Walmart.

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Mascara's, Wands and Keeping Sanitized

In a recent Twitter post, I posted that I didn't understand the concept of buying super expensive mascara.  What's the point?  After 3 months it's got to go into the garbage anyways.  That's right...In case you weren't aware, whether you used it once or 50 times, 3 months from that date it needs to be disposed of.  Why?  From the time that you open your mascara, it's already started to harbor germs.  And as we all know, germs love to live in warm humid places (another reason why sharing mascara is gross).  Not disposing of your mascara after 3 months can bring on some serious damage.  In my years in the business. I've seen everything from pink eye to corneal infections caused by old mascara and sharing of mascara.  So, buying $50 mascara's don't really make any sense to me.  I much rather get a pair of shoes for $50 and have them last a year (or more - given how I take care of my shoes, they'll last a life time ha!)

But Yisell, I usually keep my mascara's more than 3 months and I'm fine.  While that might be so, how many times are you willing to play Russian Roulette with your mascara?  Till you get an infection and learn the hard way?


IF YOU'RE A CONSUMER
I've gone ahead and listed my top 5 favorite mascara's which I use both in my kit and for personal use that wont run your wallet into the ground.  Now we all know that when getting a mascara it's all about the wand.  The formula sort of matters too but not as much.  The wand is what gives you the volume and the length that we all women crave.  And in this case, size does matter.

1. Covergirl Lash Blast Length - I'm in love with the skinny wand that comes with this mascara.  It's especially wonderful if you have small lashes.  If the wand is too big, it's a bit harder to get into the base of the lash and create length.

2. Covergirl Lash Blast - Huge wand!  But that's great if you already have long lashes but lack volume (such as myself).  I don't recommend this to anyone with short lashes.

3. Maybelline Define-A-Lash - I really like the rubber wand that comes with this.  It contours and bends to your lashes so it really gets in there.  Also, because the "bristles" are small, the wand doesn't pick up a ton of product so less clumping which is a total plus.

4. Maybelline Great Lash - Let me start by saying that this is a classic.  I actually used this in my kit for a very long time before exploring other options.  It's still a staple in many makeup artists kits and it's the most basic mascara I've ever encountered.  There isn't really anything special about the wand.  In fact, I find the wand to be too small and not enough fluff to give volume.  The packaging though, always give me a sense of nostalgia from when I was a kid.  My sister used to have this mascara back in the 80's (we're 11 years apart so when she was 18, I was 7) and I'd just sit there in awe and watch her do her makeup ever so carefully.  Perhaps this is why I kept it in my kit for so long.

5. L'Oreal Voluminous Original - I've left this one for last because I have to honest.  It's my favorite personally and professionally.  I love the wand, not too big, not too small.  Great for length and really amazing for volume.  I can get into the inner corner of my eye (we all know how hard it is to get in there without poking your eye out) and I can still get the volume I need on the outer corners of the eye while still separating the lashes and it leaving no clumps!  WIN!

All in all, get what works best for you.  Sometimes you won't know unless you do trial and error but at least you didn't spend $50 on a mascara that probably wont work for you.

IF YOU'RE A MAKEUP ARTIST
As a makeup artist, when mascara goes in my kit, it doesn't matter what kind of wand it has because I never use the wand anyways.  A professional and clean makeup artist should always have an arsenal of disposable mascara wands in their kit.  Using the same wand on multiple people and double dipping is an absolute NO NO!  Now, you can use the wand only and ONLY if you're keeping and washing/disinfecting the wands between use.  I used to do this for years because I was tired of constantly purchasing mascara wands.  But, that got old and I realized that I was just creating more things to clean (and I don't have to explain the joys of brush washing).  I eventually went back to using disposables and saved myself the task of cleaning one more thing.  I guess this is why the Maybelline Great Lash is such a staple, because the wand doesn't matter.  It's functional and gets the job done.  Though, I do have to say that the L'Oreal still takes the cake and I carry that in my kit instead.  In the end, use what you feel most comfortable with.  Every artist is different and has different work methods.  If you're the kind that likes to carry around more than one type of disposable mascara wand (or would like to explore and try different wands), Qosmedix has quite the selection.

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Building Your Kit

Building your kit when you're starting out could be quite time consuming, hard work and a lot of money coming out of your pocket.  But in this business, in order to be a professional and have a kit that is functional (and clean) for jobs and not be considered amateur, you need to put in the time, work and money.  But you don't have to completely break the bank.  I can help you build your kit the right way without over spending and getting things that you just don't need (coughglittershimmerfeatherscough).  You can add the rest of the fluff later after you've gotten the basics and what you need.

NOTE:  Please be aware that anything listed below are suggestions that I like and that I carry in my kit.

Skin Care
Skin care is something that should always be in your kit.  You cannot skimp on this.  If you don't prep the skin properly then anything else you do beyond this will be pointless.  Personally I like to carry no more than 2 Moisturizers in my kit.  Let's be honest here, I'm a makeup artist, not a dermatologist.  I just can't carry a skincare product for every single type of skin out there.  So I carry what I feel I use and need the most.  Also, all of the products I carry are for sensitive skin because you just never know.

  • Aveeno Ultra-Calming Moisturizer - I like this because not only does it reduce redness but it calms irritated skin (especially in the winter). 
  • Embryolisse Lait-Creme Concentre (24 Hour Miracle Cream) - This is by far the best moisturizer I have ever encountered.  It just leaves the skin super soft.  And it serves as a makeup remover!
  • Keihls Ultra Facial Toner - It's milky, doesn't contain alcohol and it doesn't strip the skin of any oils leaving the skin supple, not dry.
  • Elizabeth Arden Eight Hour Cream - I call this the "everything cream" because it really does serve as everything.  I've used it as moisturizer on super dry skin, lip balm, hand cream and even "mascara" when I don't want to use actual mascara for kids and men (to give some definition).
Note: For oily skin I either skip the moisturizer or use very little.

Foundations
This is where it gets tricky because there are just so many types of foundations out there that are absolutely beautiful and I wish I can own them all but really there is no point.  Find the foundation that you love the most for your kit.  I personally like to have one that gives a dewy, youthful glow (mostly used for print & bridal), and one that's a bit more matte without leaving the skin looking like it's screaming for moisture (mostly used to TV/Film HD).  I also generally like liquids that have good cover.  If I need to make them sheer I can always use a foundation thinner or moisturizer to do so.  No need to buy sheer foundations when you can thin them out yourself.  I carry:
  • FACEatelier Ultra Pro - This is my 'go to' foundation and the one that I use the most.  I'd say in about 95% of my work I've used this foundation.  It's like liquid gold.  Covers, leaves the skin looking flawless, dewy and youthful and a little goes a long way.  Oh and they're travel friendly!  Always a plus when you're traveling for work.
  • Make Up For Ever (MUFE) HD - I love this foundation for TV/Film work.  It goes on like second skin and just so light.  It's the must have for HD and anyone who has super oily skin.  It's matte without sucking the life from your skin.  Sometimes there even isn't a need to powder.  Any time I get to skip a step, is a happy day for me.
  • *Optional*Graftobian Hi-Def Glamour Creme - I love, love, love this foundation the best for women of color.  Not to say that the other ones on this list aren't great for darker women, I just personally prefer to work with creams when it comes to women of color.  A little goes a long way so be careful, it's smooth and buttery amazingness can turn against you. 
Eye Shadows
Another tricky one.  There's so many brands out there and some artists prefer one brand over the other and that's completely fine.  Again, get what you feel most comfortable working with.  But one thing that without question should always be in your kit...matte neutrals.  I can't tell you how having matte neutrals in your kit is super important.  Real paying jobs (you know, the type that you can live off and pay your bills) will 90% of the time want something clean and beautiful.  That's not to say you can't own any shimmers.  There are some beautiful shimmers out there that I use for my catalog work all the time - they're on the list, don't worry.
  • Viseart 12 Color Eyeshadow Palette - Where do I even begin to describe this palette.  Every pro that I know has this palette and just absolutely swears by it.  In fact, it's so beautiful that most of the time it's sold out everywhere!  It's the first matte eyeshadow that I've encountered that aren't chalky and blend beautiful (second is the FACEatelier individual matte neutrals)
  • Urban Decay Naked Palette - Great palette with a beautiful range of neutrals and it's got both mattes and shimmers.  They blend beautifully and I find that I use them a lot for bridal and/or special occasions for that extra glam factor.
  • Yaby Best of Both Worlds Palette - What can I say about Yaby except you can't EVER go wrong with their eyeshadows.  This palette contains both neutrals (in matte and shimmers) along with some color shadows.  Some colors that you'll use a lot, some that you wont use as much.  But at least they're in the palette for those "just in case" moments when a client suddenly wants a purple smokey eye.
Lipsticks
You should always have a good assortment of lipsticks in your kit.  Whether you want to buy them in a palette or buy them individually and make your own lipstick palette, is completely up to you.  I like to buy them individually only because most palettes contain colors that you won't other wise find as an individual.  Last thing I want to do is re-buy a whole entire palette for just one color because I love it, now I've become attached, use it often, run out of the color and then I can't buy just that one color because its palette exclusive.  Defeats the point of saving money doesn't it?  Plus, that's a total bummer.  All of  my lipsticks that I use the most are from different companies depotted into a Z Palette.  I always suggest getting an assortment of various pinks, reds, burgandys, plums, corals and nude/neutrals.  Brands that I love and use often are FACEatelier, YSL, Shiseido, Yaby, Revlon & Maybelline.

Blush/Contour
Again, get this in palette form.  It's just easier and efficient and you get to cover all ranges of skin tones.
  • La Femme 12 Color Blush Palette - The pigmentation of this palette is insane!  You'll have this for a very long time as you'll use such little product to get the effect you need.
  • NARS Bronzing Powder "Laguna" - I know I've said that palettes are key but when it comes to contouring, I use one color on pretty much everyone from fair to medium/olive toned.  This color is just so gorgeous and I'm completely in love (and attached) to it.  It's got these tiny gold flecks that, when applied, read as a healthy glow and not as a shimmer.
  • MAC Bronzing Powder "Matte Bronze" - Another individual (and its MAC! - notice how I don't use anything MAC except for this powder).  I carry this bronzer for one purpose and one purpose only.  Men!  That's right, I use it only when I'm doing male grooming.  Why?  Because men need matte.  I can't exactly go around putting Laguna on their face now can I?
  • Yaby Powder Foundation Palette "The Darks" - So you may have the occasional really dark model/client and "Laguna" just isn't going to cut it.  That's where this palette steps in.  Don't let the "powder foundation" name throw you off.  You can absolutely use this as bronzer.
The Little Things
  • Mascara - Get a regular drugstore brand.  Whichever you like the most.  Don't go expensive on mascara because no matter how many times you've used it, once you've opened it, it officially has a life span of 3 months before you need to dispose of it and get another one.  Mascara's harbor germs so always remember, 3 months and it's got to go.  
  • Pencil Liners - Get one in Black and Brown.  I like the Urban Decay 24/7.
  • Liquid/Gel Liners - Same as above, 1 black, 1 brown.  I like the Tarte Amazonian Clay Waterproof Liners (in the pot).  I've recommended this liner to friends and some stated to have gone swimming and this liner just doesn't budge.
  • Tweezers - I happen to love the Tweezerman brand.  I've had one of their tweezers for years now (I carry 2).  The other I keep replacing because either I keep losing it or others love it as much as I do and it happens to "walk" off set.
  • Eyelash Curler - I carry 2 as well.  I have the Shu Uemura one and the Yaby Heated Lash Curler.  Both the best of their kind.  I've had the Shu one for almost 6 years now (maybe more) and the Yaby heated for 2 years.  Why a heated lash curler?  Because sometimes you'll get those straight eyelashes that are just impossible to curl and I promise you this heater curler will save your day and make your lash curling way easier.
Disposables
  • Sponges
  • Mascara Wands
  • Q-Tips
  • Cotton Balls/Pads
  • Powder Puffs
  • Makeup Wipes
  • Tissues
Brushes/Tools
The brushes you use are completely and totally up to you.  There are so many different brands.  Every artist that I've encountered likes different types of brushes for all sorts of reasons.  Their softness, the handle, the colors, the multi-functionality.  In the end you should use what feels right in your hands.  I only want to state one little thing.  Your brushes are how you "paint".  These are your tools, an extension of you.  Go too cheap and you'll end up replacing that brush in no time.  But that doesn't mean that you have to go crazy expensive either (unless you want).  I like functional brushes but they also have to do their job and be pretty.  My most used brushes in my roll are by Bdellium Tools and Royal & Langnickel Silk Collection.  Some are even Sephora brand.  Just know that whatever you choose as your tools, should work for you!

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Metallics and Gloss

My metallics haven't been used in quite some time.  I mean, I'm pretty sure I had to dust some of them off from my back up storage and drawers with the "fun stuff" in it.  This shoot was quite interesting.  I'd forgotten how difficult shooting with metallics and gloss can be.  But it was a nice reminder (haha) and one fun shoot.  There's also a beauty breakdown of the first image.  Enjoy!


Photography: Kat Bret
Hair: Alex Tome
Model: Yifei Li @ Major
Makeup / Nails: Yisell Santos (Me)








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Highlighting and Contouring, the Basics

Highlighting & Contouring...that lovely thing we all do to give dimension to the face.  It's also that lovely thing that people always have a hard time with.  Whether it's applying it on yourself or applying it on others, highlighting & contouring can be tricky and if done wrong, can look like a disaster.  And trust me, I've seen some pretty bad H&C out there.

Now, I'm not going to teach you, give you a tutorial or show you step by step on how to do it.  Why?  Because highlighting and contouring isn't something that can be taught.  It is something that needs to be learned with practice and patience.  You know how I  always say to practice, practice, practice?  Well, this is one of those times.  But, there are a few things that I did (and still do to this day) that helped me learn how to highlight and contour correctly.  Remember, every face is different.  You will never highlight and contour the same for everyone.

All Makeup by Me

Whether you're doing a soft or hard application, the way that I found worked best for me (and that has worked well for others that have assisted me) is to "get to know the face".  What I mean by that is just that!  While your model / client is sitting in that chair waiting for you to make magic, take that time to look at their face.  Take a mental note of where all the high points of the face are (highlight), take note of where the hollows are (contour).  Now that you have a visual it's time to feel the skin.  That's right, take those lovely little feelers and touch their face.  I love to do so while I'm moisturizing.  I have and will always moisturize with my fingers.  This lets me feel the facial muscles & bones and gives me a better sense of the kind of skin  texture that I will be working with.

A great way to practice is on yourself (or a friend).  Grab a friend and massage his / her face with a little moisturizer.  Close your eyes and mentally envision the bones and muscles you're feeling all the while mentally taking notes.  Feel the cheekbones, feel the bridge of the nose, feel the temple and forehead  Now that you have an idea of what's under the skin, you can now highlight and contour to your liking.

Of course there is way more to this method such as the kind of lighting your working with, the kind of look you're going for, product you're using, blending properly etc., but once you have the basics down and "get to know the face", then you can move forward.  You can't expect to run before walking.  Without learning the basics, how do you expect to fully grasp the rest that's involved?

Now go forth, practice like crazy and be awesome!

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Color Story

Everyone knows my work as super clean, glowy and natural.  With constant work I barely get any chance of testing anymore so when the opportunity to create and add color arose, I jumped with glee!  Though, shot in early December and you've probably seen it on my Facebook Page and I even did a beauty breakdown on one of the images, here's the color story I worked on.  Enjoy!

Photography: Kat Bret
Model: Ira @ Muse
Hair / Ribbons: Alexander Tome
Makeup / Nails: Yisell Santos (me)












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CKONE Color

CKONE color was generous enough to send me some of their key products to try out.  Usually my blog isn't about rating makeup and product but I felt the need to blog about them because I was so impressed with their stuff.  The pigmentation on the lipsticks are phenomenally pigmented, the shadows and blushes are smooth as well as their powder and their glosses have a nice scent and aren't sticky.  Although I couldn't swatch every single thing (I give kudos to those who keep up with product blogs - seriously hard work) I did swatch my favs. Here's a few items that they sent.

POWDER FOUNDATION
Although they're smooth and have nice pigment, I just would never use them as foundation.  But they're great as setting powders.

MOUSSE CONCEALERS
If you have very little to no redness or dark circles then these are for you.  The coverage is pretty light.

EYESHADOW QUADS
So smooth, gorgeous color and the Quad to the left is ideal for weddings.  Though, the matte colors can be used for catalog as well.
POWDER & CREAM BLUSH DUO
Just amazing.  The coral duo (right) is my absolute favorite.  Quickly becoming a catalog staple in my kit.
LIPGLOSSES
Love, love, love these.  They even have a nice soft scent to them.  

LIPSTICKS
I think the swatches speak for themselves.  Just gorgeous and so creamy!

 All in all, if you're looking to invest in some CKONE Color products, do it!  I can't wait to use the brighter lipsticks.  The lighter "normal" ones (first 4) are amazing for catalog and commercial work.



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